Day in the Gardens
Oxford
Honeymoon - Day 7 - Wrapping it Up
I must say, our last day in Singapore started
off very well. I had an appointment for a massage
and facial at the Amarita Spa in our hotel at
10:00am that morning, and it was fabulous!! It
was a much smaller spa than any I've been to, but
they did have two steam rooms: one Finnish style
(dry heat), one Russian style (wet heat); they
also had two whirlpools and one "cold pool".
There was only one other woman there when I
arrived, so I'm guessing more people use the
facilities in the afternoon. So it was nice to
get some time alone before they called me in for
my appointment. The same girl did both the
massage and the facial, and she was exceptional
at each. It was nice too having one technician
too, because you didn't have to move after the
message, and just continued to relax. I really
liked the way she did the massage--long smooth
strokes, using pressure points to work on
individual knots rather than poking or pinching
or kneading. Very nice. The facial was good too,
she gave me a lot of really good tips on how to
better take care of my skin, and it really helped
to even up the texture of my skin considerably,
as well as clear up the acne break-out I'd been
battling since the wedding.
So by the time I left the spa I felt incredible.
I headed up to the room for a quick shower and
met up with Stephen, then we headed out to grab
lunch before going to finish up seeing the
botanical gardens.
We grabbed lunch at this great mini sushi
supermarket thing in the bottom of one of the
large shopping centers on Orchard Road. So we
grabbed a table and ordered some drinks and dived
in. Good sushi. Then we decided something sweet
would go down well, before hitting the streets
again to go to the Botanical gardens. So they had
this white mousse cake with coconut flakes on top
and what looked like coconut on the inside. I get
it back to the table, take a big bite, and IT WAS
ONION! Who in their right mind puts onion in
cake? Evidently the chinese do. (do not trust the
Chinese; they are malfunctioning)
At that point we jumped street side to grab a bus
to head to the Botantical Gardens. We had
forgotten our handy guidebook, so we used the
street guide in the metro to figure out which bus
number we needed. The bus came, we got on, got to
the point where the bus *should* have turned to
go to the Botanical Gardens, and it DIDN'T. So we
hung tight, thinking "ok, maybe it's taking a
different route." After a long ride, we finally
decided to ask the bus driver, and low and
behlod, that bus didn't go to the Gardens
anymore. So she dropped us off at the next stop
and instructed which bus we needed to get on to
get to the Gardens.
So we hop on the next bus, and I grabbed a route
schedule. It would have taken us over an hour by
bus to get back, but we did recognize one stop
that we knew for sure had a metro station, so we
got on that one, and took the metro back to the
stop where we got to the gardens before, and got
on the right bus, making it to the gardens in
less than 20 minutes.
This bus dropped us off at a different part of
the gardens than previously, so we got to see
quite a different section as we made our way back
to the orchid garden to finish up where we left
off. Unfortunately, the bromeliad garden was
closed (Stephen was disappointed), but we got to
see the rest of the orchids, which were amazing,
but decidedly prettier when it was raining. There
was something about the rain that made their
colors even more vibrant than in full sun.
Perhaps contrast with the grey sky? Who knows.
However, as we were discussing this effect, the
sky started to cloud over and bits of rain began
to fall. Fortunately, it never turned into the
downpour of our last visit, but it rained enough
to make the gardens even more beautiful. We
walked past several new areas in our quest to
find a bus stop (our day for adventure, so we
avoided hitting any one place twice), and finally
found one after exiting hte gardens and walking
for a few blocks. The gardens really are a place
that one needs to spend several long afternoons
over the course of several months to really
appreciate--preferrably with a picnic.
So from that bus stop we decided to go back to
Little India to pick up a few things we
remembered at the last minute. I got the feeling
that we were on the verge of some fabulous
festival as many of the streets were now lined
with vendors and there was a large tent in the
center of one square with chairs and podiums set
up. We would have loved to sit around and see
what was about to happen, but we had dinner
reservations at the top of the hotel (Equinox
restaurant) so we had to go about our business.
Dinner that night was an intersting mix of
fabulous and unnerving. We had been reminded when
we made our reservation that there was a dress
code, so Stephen donned his suit for the first
time and I wore a nice skirt-top combo with a
favorite pair of heels. We looked quite the
dapper pair and headed to the downstairs bar for
a drink before heading up to dinner.
The view from the 70th floor looking out over the
harbor and financial distric was really amazing;
our waiter, with his obsessive compulsive
lurching, was not. At first it was really pretty
annoying, and then became comical as the night
wore on. I'll spare you all the details, but it
was pretty obvious he was new, and had not had a
chance to familiarize himself with much of the
menu. The dinner itself was really quite tasty,
an interesting mix of french and asian cuisine.
Stephen informed me that the menu style was very
french, except for the lack of "set" menus.
Evidently, most truly French restaurants have
several proposed meals that include 1 or 2
choices of appetizer, entre, dessert, cheese and
wine for a set price, I guess figuring the chef
knows what will taste good together better than
the average Joe (dunno, just guessing). We ran
into this at a few other places, and really found
it to be the best way to make a dinner decision
with unknown foods, so maybe the French have
something there.
Anyway, Equinox only had one set menu, and it
didn't really appeal to either of us, so we
ordered a la carte. Stephen ordered Lobster
Ravioli, I got braised lamb with this
rasberry-burgandy sauce. Really, really yummy.
Followed up with a trio of Creme Brulee's: Orange
Spice, Chocolate, and Regular. Very, VERY tasty
indeed. We stayed for quite while drinking tea
and coffee, talking and reflecting over the city.
Stephen became quite overjoyed when he found out
they had a particular kind of apple-pear liquor
that he hadn't had since he was in France. Nice
crowning moment to the evening, and to the trip
in general.
Unfortunatly the night didn't contain much more
(though we were both in the mood for a stroll),
since we had to be leaving the hotel at 4:00 the
next morning to catch our 6:50 flight. Bleah. So
back to the room for a quick nap, and then
packed. And thus our trip ended. Quiet, full,
contented, well-dressed, and reflective. Amazing
city, fascinating country, definitely a place to
return to.
Honeymoon - Day 5 - Bird Park and Oriental Gardens
Unlike getting to the zoo, we got to the bird park with no problem and were inside the gates by 11:30. It is built on pretty much the same principle as the zoo, only with more cages since birds are substantially more mobile than most other animals, but usually even the "cages" were large enclosed areas several tens or hundreds of feet tall. They also had trained falconers on hand to help exercise the large birds of prey, of which they had numerous species, ranging from the smallest kites and miniature hawks to bald eagles. But still, many birds were allowed mostly free range of the park including most of the pelicans, ducks, flamingos, herons, and storks. The flamingo pond was home to some 1000 birds! A huge stink, but really interesting to see a flock that large interact.
They also had this amazing Waterfall area housing the largest man-made waterfall, cascading some 100 feet high, with the net probably another 50-100 feet above that. It housed numerous birds, mostly tropicals. There was constuction being done on the upper pathways, so we could only go so high among the trees, but it was enough to get a lovely view, and see quite a few birds.
Looping back around, we had lunch overlooking the flamingo pond (inside looking through glass to keep our appetite from the smell), and then took in the rest of the park.
They had a miniature Rainforest set up to emulate the enviornment of East Asian rainforests, where, again lots of birds roamed/flew free. You had to be pretty careful here, as these birds were substantially more land based than in the waterfall area, and were prone to darting out of the bushes behind or in front of you, and then squawcking loudly if you got too close (dumb birds). One of the crowned pigeons evidently found Stephen on the offensive side, as it came up and bit him on the foot as he was standing there watching me take pictures of other birds in the wooded area. The next thing I knew he yelled and was doing a dance that was him halfway trying not to kick the offending bird and yet keep a safe distance. So we made a bee-line for the exit, as two of them now chased us. Fortunately our legs were longer, and they didn't try to fly so we made it out in one piece. Unfortunately, this experience has not done much to cure his habit of booting pigeons, and had this particular variety not been labelled endangered and there been many cameras around, that one would have gotten kicked as well. Stupid bird.
Moving on we came to a huge hummingbird exhibit (including their own enclosed large tentish thing), pelicans, toucans and horn bills. I didn't realize the latter two got so big!! Even with cages some 25-30 feet wide and 60-70 tall, they didn't have enough room to fly more than a few seconds worth. When they flapped their wings, it sounded like a helicopter getting started up. They had wingspans easily 6-8 feet wide. Beautiful birds, and the only ones that it really pained me to see caged up as all the others (including the largest of the birds of prey) got plenty of room to exercise at least once a day.
The last two exhibits were probably my favorites of all though: the parrots and the owls! The parrots were in a completely open area, and were awaiting their own netted tent to fly around in. As it was, they were free to roam the park during the day (for the most part), and then were caged at night. Very lively birds, it was fun to watch them play, and see all the normal items they turned into toys. In many ways, parrots seem to be the monkeys of the birds: higly intellegent and playful.
The owl exhibit was really neat, as it was almost completely dark, except for a very dim light in the color range that particular species of owl could not see. They had 10-12 different species of owl, including a Siberian variety more adapted to seeing and hunting during the day, since the Siberian summers experience almost 24 hours of light for several weeks on end. Beautiful, beautiful birds. They had other nocturnal birds as well, but they weren't nearly as impressive as the owls.
Then, still having a good bit of energy left (and daylight) in us (must have been the good sleep of the night before), we headed to the Oriental Gardens. Just a short walk from the metro, they had a sign announcing that the Japanese section of the gardens was under rennovations, and thus closed. Stephen was pretty dissapointed, but the Chinese gardens turned out to be plenty to explore on their own. First we came to the 7 story pagoda, that from afar looked decorated with many colored lanturns; however, when we got close they turned out to be umbrellas!! The whole park was decorated in colored lanturns and umbrellas and various paper figurines to celebrate the chinese New Year. So, a very good time for us to visit!!
We also found an extremely large bonsai garden, and got to watch one of the bonsai masters at work trimming some of the trees. Fascinating!! The large trees out front were over 250 years old, and many inside the garden of various sizes were aged near or older than 100 years. It's amazing to look at those works of art, and realize that it has taken numberous generations of masters to acheive the present state of beauty. Awe inspiring to say the least. Unfortunately, by the time we got to the Bonsai I had already filled up two picture cards and was on the third (yes, that's nearly 400 pictures in one day), so not many pictures of the gardens could be taken, but I have a feeling
Stephen is planning on going back while I'm at the spa on Wednesday morning.
So after exhausting our picture capacity, and staying right up until their closing time, we wandered through the rest of the gardens enjoying the festive decorations and holiday spirit. Then we hopped back on the MRT, and headed to Newton Circus for dinner.
Newton Circus is what is known has a "hawker" center, or a large open air food court with dozens upon dozens of vendors selling everything from the scarily familiar to the completely alien--all for really good prices. They are fantastic ways to sample the local cuisine without spending a fortune Since the day had been a hot, sticky one, even by Singapore standards (I will never complain about the humidity in Houston again), I opted for an Indian vegetarian dish that was part omelette, part fritter, and with lots of vegetables, foreign and familiar, served with this amazingly tasty spicy orange soupy sauce. Hit the spot! Stephen ordered beef satay and chomped his way through two portions. We both had two large glasses of lime juice topped off with kiwi and papaya for dessert. Now that's what I call a stellar meal, and all for less than S$30 I think hawker centers are going to be the staple of our dining from now on. Too good to pass up.
Honeymoon - Day 4 - Botanical Gardens
Today we got a little bit of a lazy start
after our full day today, and decided to take it
easy and only hit the botantical gardens. We got
there around noon and I figured out some more
settings on my camera that made taking pictures
with the overcast sky without a flash much
easier. (yay for good cameras).
The botanical gardens are really amazing, with a
swan pond and simulated rain forest as well as
various subsets of gardens scattered throughout
including a garden expressly dedicated to members
of the ginger family. So we wandered for several
hours and just got inside the orchid gardens when
it started to sprinkle. So we broke out the
umbrella (just had the small one with us) and
continued on. Unfortunately, we only got through
a little less than half the garden when the sky
let loose with buckets full of rain, that
inhibited our progress substantially as we only
brought the one umbrellas with us and a backpack.
So we took cover under a little pavillion
thinking we would wait it out, but after a
substantial amount of time it was obvious it was
not going to quit anytime soon. So we packed it
up after a snack, and walked leisurely through
part of the gardens to get back to the bus stop,
sharing the umbrella. Back at the hotel we dried
off a bit, changed and hopped over to Nooch
Noodle Bar for dinner. Very tasty indeed!! I had
a Thai noodle concotion rich in garlic and ginger
with duck meat and rice noodles, and Stephen had
beef udon. Good stuff. Then some window shopping
and back to the room for some down time, as we
realized that we were both pretty tired and
wanting a quiet evening alone. Something we
haven't had for at least a month.
So not a whole lot here, tomorrow we plan to pick
up the pace from today.
Honeymoon - Day 1 - Historic Singapore
Then we headed to out to see the city!! We really could not have asked for a prettier first day. A few rain clouds threated late in the morning, but cleared off with little other than blocking the sun for a few hours and adding to the already oppressive humidity (didn't believe that it could get worse than Houston--welcome to the tropics!). But we braved it, venturing into the vast shopping centers that dominate underneath the city when we needed a break from the heat or when an entrance looked particulary appealing.
We spent most of the day in "old" Singapore and the area right around the hotel. The first thing we did was head across the street to the WWII monument, which is an obilisk made of four free standing pillars joined at the top, with an urn thing in the center surrounded by fountains. Really quite pretty, a fitting testament to the plight of all of East Asia during WWII.
Then we headed down the street, past the Singapore Sporting Club (including several cricket fields--now there's a game I really don't understand), to the Anglican Church, which was built in the 1850s and to this day is not airconditioned. I could not imagine how stifiling it must be when full with the already overbearing humity. It was really pretty on the inside though, and set on some beautiful grounds, that, for whatever reason, were being used partially for downtown parking.
After that we wondered by the Supreme Court and old City Hall, neither of which we were allowed to enter as court was being held in the former, and they were in the middle of a business function in the latter. Neat from the outside though. It's really neat to see the neoclassical facades punctuated by palm trees and giant ferns. A bit of cognitive dissonance, but provides an interesting insight into the mindset that must have built this place.
Past these buildings we came to the landing site of Sir William Raffles, who first opened Singapore up to World Trade, establishing it as the basis of the economy to be resurrected in the 20th century, leading to it's grand economic "miracle". Behind the statue, you can see some of the taller towers of the financial district.
From here, we walked around the main river banks, checking out the sculptures gracing the outside of the Asian Civilizations Museum and the various bridges.
We didn't go into any of the museums today, preferring to enjoy the beautiful weather, and saving those for a rainy day, literally.
In light of the beautiful weather, we decided to take a boat tour of the Singapore River to learn a bit more about the various bridges and buildings along the banks. It was a bit disappointing in this regard, but we got some spectacular pictures from the water, and got to give our feet a rest and sit in the shade.
The bumboat (seriously, that's what they call it!) let us off across the river and we made our way through the Ft. Canning Gardens. It had a little walk way that every so often had signs explaining much of the pre-colonial history of Singapore, as well as pointing out some of the more significant vegetation. The trees here are really amazing, and appear to all coexist with various types of ferns and vines that over the outside of them. It kind of makes them look like something out of a science fiction novel.
About half-way through the park, we stopped at a little shopping center and had lunch at Don's Noodle shop. I had ramen with vegetables and prawns and Stephen had Udon, stealing some of my shrimp if I didn't keep a close eye on him. hehehe. His dexterity with chopsticks allowed him to steal more than a few. After that, we stopped at another little shopping center to pick up some personal items before going back to the hotel to download the pictures and allow me to change shoes. The combination of humidity and a goodly amount of walking meant my feet were pretty swollen, but a brief rest and a more comfortable pair of shoes got us back out on the trail (so to speak), and we caught the MRT (subway) back over to the Canning Gardens to finish the tour there (with freshly cleaned memory cards).
The MRT system here is really swank. Instead of buying tokens or the flimsy paper tickets with magnetic strips (that tear easily or get jammed in the machines), they issue credit card like things, that you merely hold up to the sensor at the subway gates and they let you pass. It doesn't charge you until you exit the system (again by waving the card in front of the sensor). They're also supposed to work the exact same way on the bus system, but we've yet to try that out.
Back to the Ft. Canning gardens, fed and rested, we toured through an old cemetary. In the 1970s they went through and cleared out all of the grave stones, and set them into the walls surrounding the area. They left a few up in one little corner, but the vast majority now form the wall. A really cool idea to say the least, though I imagine that family members of those "transplanted" may not be too thrilled with the idea.
From there, we toured through the spice gardens, most of which were not in flower, but those that were, were quite stunning. I also learned a good bit about the various plants that I eat regularly, but never knew how they grew. For instance, vanilla grows on a vine! So that was pretty cool.
The spice gardens turned onto a working archeological dig site, where most of the knowledge of "Pre-Raffles" Singapore comes from. So we toured through there, learning a good bit about the culture as it was before the arrival of the british. Evidently, they were not the first ones to realize it's potential as a trading post, and spent most of the 1300s, 1400s, and 1500s bouncing from one Asian empire to the next. Not really condusive to trade, I wouldn't think, but it seemed to be enough to keep the area going economically.
At this point it became obvious that we needed more picture space, and just happened to come upon the largest Tech mall in the world. So, naturally, we went in, and found a really good deal on another picture card, and enjoyed looking through some technology that is either unavailable or horrendously expensive in the states, but readily available here. Guess it really does help to be located so close to all the major electronics manufactureres.
Thirsty again, and just around the corner from the historic Raffles Hotel, we stopped in to have a drink and a snack; I could not resist having a Singapore Sling (despite the fact it contains gin *bleah*), and it was surprisingly good. Stephen, being responsible, had lime juice. We shared a platter of satay (Indian/Malay version of shish-kebobs), and being a bit tired, hopped back to our hotel for a nap and a shower (the humidity had taken its toll) before popping over to Chijmes for dinner.
Chijmes is an old nunnery, converted to a shopping mall and set of eateries. We didn't get to go into any of the shops or the old church, as they were closed by the time we got there; but it's on the agenda for tomorrow!!
We had a fabulous dinner at one of the little eateries (Breeze Garden), and Stephen discovered that yes, some people do even put hot chilies in ice cream. My desert was substantially less hot, but just as exotic: Sweet Basil Ice Cream (like green tea ice cream only not as tannin laden, really quite good). Stephen had Salmon for his main course, and I had duck. Mine was fabulous, though the vegetable selection was obviously constructed for looks and not for eating. I resisted the urge to take a picture of it, and picked around the edges as best I could (the center pieces were literally glued in place with cheese--could not get it apart to save my life).
By this point we were both pretty tired, despite the nap, so back to the hotel we went to rest up before hitting the town again tomorrow. Until then!!
Rest of the day in London
The gardens were really beautiful, and all different kinds of trees. So it was nice and refreshing to get about and stretch my legs after nearly 12 hours in an airplane. Kensington Palace and the little art museum there in the park were both closed due to renovations, so nothing there to really explore.
Then back to the hostel/B&B to check in. I was only 5 minutes early, but they still didn't have the room ready, but they said they had a room with a private bath that I could take instead for an extra 6 GBP. So, I took it thinking that a nice lingering, steamy shower would feel wonderful after a good long walk in the drizzle and traveling. Well, it turned out that the entire "bathroom" was about the size of a standard bathtub: shower, toilet, and sink. I literally could not close the door while sitting on the toilet because there wasn't enough room. While showering I had to stand parallel to the wall so that all of me would fit in the shower at once.
So much for a lingering shower. But hey, I got clean, which was more than I was before.
I then picked up a little guide they had in the front lobby of all the sights in London, and since time was short I decided to hit the National Gallery instead of St. Paul's and the Tate.
On my way out, though, I had the front desk guy arrange transportation for the next morning at 4:50 so that I could make my flight to Aberdeen at 7:00. After making the reservation he gave me the name and phone number of the driver that he had arranged. Remember this for later.
Anyway, off I went to the National Gallery-- and yes, Branson you were right the tube system is really wonderful, if for no other reason that it has little Cadbury Egg dispensers all over the place. =)
I spent most of my time in the 1700-1900 section and in a special sculpture exhibit they had up. I think one of my favorites out of the paintings was Monet's 'Parliment at Sunset'. Its done in such a way that they shadow of the building on the water morphs into the building above as the red, purple and yellow streaked sky fills in the remaining space. The colors were so vibrant and the way he streaked the sky for sunset reminded me more of lightning at dusk than a true sunset. Really remarkable. I think I may become a fan of impressionism afterall.
So I stayed at the museum until it closed at 6:00pm, grabbed a rather dry and tasteless turkey sandwhich at a nearby cafe, and then headed back to read for a few hours before doing pre-check out (since I would be leaving so early the next day), and asleep by 9:00pm.
All in all a pretty good day in London, but definitely some place to come back to a spend a week or so seeing everything. For instance, they have a permenant collection of Dali at an extension of the Tate that I would love to see. Hopefully it will still be there in a few years time.